The Relisher is the place where the world’s top chefs reveal their favorite spots in their home cities. This week, in an Expert Edition, I spoke with Yolanda Edwards, the founder and editor of Yolo Journal, a travel lifestyle magazine and newsletter, and Yolo Intel Substack (widely regarded as the best travel newsletter) on her favorite spots in Rome.
With Yolanda’s incredible eye for finding the best travel gems, I couldn’t think of a better person to share her favorite spots in Rome than Yolanda, who has been living in Rome for the last two years. Get Yolanda’s Rome black book below.
*At the end of the interview, there is a Google Map link and a summary with links and price ranges for all the mentioned places.
Dinner Restaurants
The place that immediately pops into my mind is called La Matriciana dal 1870. It's not exactly in the center; it's right across from the theater. So, it attracts more Romans because most tourists aren't going to Italian theater. It's old school, very elegant, and the waiters are more classically dressed.
La Matriciana has a stellar menu, probably offering around 20 incredible pastas, and every time we go there, we try something new. Just note that they're definitely known for their Amatriciana, a traditional Italian pasta sauce based on Italian cured meat, pecorino cheese, and tomato.
I recently ate at this place, which I've gone to many times, but I just sort of rediscovered it, and it’s called Trattoria Da Teo. Like many restaurants in Rome, it’s family-owned, and it really feels family-owned because the father's in the kitchen, while the mother's at the front and regularly checks in to make sure that you're enjoying.
During artichoke season (spring, late fall, and winter) they serve this incredible Roman specialty of puntarelle salad with anchovy and artichoke.
Another must-try artichoke dish is the judas (or fried artichoke). At most restaurants, I feel like I'm eating potato chips and don't actually taste the artichoke. Da Teo fries theirs perfectly — crisp on the outside yet tender inside with the meaty, unfried part of the artichoke still intact.
In terms of pasta, they offer an off-menu specialty called aglio olio pepperoncini — you have to know to ask for it. It has raw shrimp, almost carpaccio-like, placed on the bottom of the plate, and is topped with garlic and oil pasta. It is the most incredible combination.
Colline Emiliane is near the Trevi Fountain, and it is one of those places where you really have to schedule in advance (I plan a month ahead before visiting). It is filled with both Romans and tourists. They have a window where the aunts are making pasta. I usually stay away from places like this because they're very touristy, but here it’s not the case at all.
For the starter, you must order the Culatello Di Zibello — a very special cured meat, and their mortadella (Italian sausage) is also incredible. Someone has to order pasta — and the move is either the tortellini in brodo (cheese-filled tortellini in rich chicken broth) or the tagliatelle bolognese. I dream about their bollito (boiled meat) with a salsa verde, but I also love their roast beef or meatballs with the best-mashed potatoes.
Casual Restaurants
Caffe Peru is an inexpensive all-day, all-night kind of place — it’s a spot that my friends and I regularly meet at. It's one of those places where if you want to see the way the city moves and where the real Romans eat, this is it. In the morning, I’ll order a macchiato, which is served as an espresso, and on the counter, they have a sundae-style glass with homemade whipped cream that you help yourself to. You just take a spoonful of cream and put it into the espresso — it's the best macchiato you could have.
Cafe Peru is great for lunch as well. They have an incredible pasta al limone (lemon pasta), and a beautiful selection of hearty vegetable dishes like lentils and romanesco broccoli.
Another one of my favorite casual spots is Pietro Valentini (on the outside it says Da Pietro). It’s not fancy or pretty on the inside, but the food is incredible. It’s a husband and wife business — Simona greets you at the front with a hug, while her husband cooks in the kitchen.
They specialize in seasonal dishes, and in particular truffles (when it’s truffle season). The pasta is all handmade, and Simona grades mounds of truffles onto your dish — the generosity is unbelievable. They often serve fried eggs with truffle shavings on top, also incredible. And when it’s not truffle season, I’ll order their excellent cacio e pepe. I like to come here for lunch as for dinner, I prefer places with a bit more ambiance. Note that there are two locations for Pietro Valentini, so make sure you go to the Via Dei Pianellari 19, address.
Quick Bites
One of the great things about Rome is that there are so many places where you can grab food on the go. This is ideal when you want to maximize sightseeing during your visit. My favorite quick grab spot is Forno Campo De' Fiori, who makes incredible breads stuffed with the most clever fillings. I almost always order the pizza bianca with the chicory and pecorino filling.
There is so much good pizza in this town that I’ll skip the stand-up places — if you see something that looks good just go! I don’t believe that in this town especially, you need to go out of your way just for good pizza. It’s everywhere. But, if you want a nice sit-down lunch or dinner spot, that has great pizza, along with a proper menu for those who want something besides pizza —check out Da Francesco. I always go for the classic Margherita.
Coffee Shops & Bars
Many coffee shops in Rome open early and stay open late into the night, serving both coffee and alcoholic drinks.
I'm an espresso drinker, so Cafe Peru (mentioned above) is my local go-to spot. But Bar San Calisto is one of those very charming places that I go for coffee (I'm not a bar-goer). It has the cutest signage and a sweet old man working behind the counter. Locals love this place for its cocktails.
Another one of my favorite spots for coffee is Caffè Portoghesi — a great little neighborhood cafe that makes excellent coffee. In the winter, they make an affogato with their homemade ice cream and coffee. Come summer, they have this incredible iced tea: they take lemon sorbet and pour iced tea over the top. It's to die for!
I'm not somebody who goes to Sant' Eustachio Caffè or Roscioli. I go to the places where you feel like you're seeing real Roman life in front of you, not places you found on a list.
Gelato & Sweets
I’m not much of a sweets person, and prefer alcohol over sweets. If I had to choose my favorite gelato spot, it would be Neve di Latte, which uses excellent ingredients and has several locations across the city. For sweets, I’d head to the old-school La Pasticceria Regoli and see what looks exciting behind the counter, depending on the season.
Boutiques
My favorite boutique in Rome is called Atelier Bomba. It's owned by a family (Christina and her son), and about 40 years ago she used to sell her designs to Barney's. They have ready-to-wear designs like delicate, beautiful cardigans, pretty dresses for weddings, and they also do custom designs. I got a beautiful navy suit here that I like to wear for events.
The second boutique is Chez Dede, a concept store run by a husband and wife team who have impeccable taste. You’ll find here curated items like books, unique objects and pieces — I recently came across a beautiful cape that they had sourced from a Roman flea market.
Everyone at Chez Dede speaks English and is very knowledgeable — it's a nice place to go if you're visiting Rome and want insider recommendations on what's happening in the city (e.g., best restaurants, bars, art exhibitions, etc.).
Museum & Rome’s Best Tour Guide
Palazzo Altemps, which is less known among tourists, has the most incredible permanent collection of Roman and Greek sculptures, which belonged to the noble family that lived there. It's a real gift to be able to be in a place that has such an extensive collection and have the ability to engage with it almost by yourself. I was there on a Saturday afternoon and there was nobody in the room (of course there were people in other rooms).
If you’re looking for an exceptional tour guide to take you through Rome’s history, Agnes Crawford (who has a Substack called Understanding Rome) is incredible. She's one of those people who has such a deep, deep knowledge of the city. She’s the best in my opinion.
Where to Sleep
Hotel Locarno is my favorite hotel in Rome. It's family-owned by a woman whose mother started it and is so tastefully decorated in a classic style. It has comfortable beds, a lovely central courtyard, and a beautiful bar. Room rates range from 500 - 800 Euros per night (depending on the season).
Another good less expensive option is Hotel Portoghesi (three-star). You can typically get a room for 150 to 200 Euros per night. It’s in a great location and has a really cute little rooftop bar where breakfast is served. The view overlooks the gorgeous terrace of the home of former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele.
Another place I recommend that’s near the train station is Hotel Mediterraneo (four-star). Designed in the late 1930s before World War II, it was the luxury hotel of the era and the first with air conditioning. The decor hasn't been updated so it feels like a time warp, with its beautiful woodwork, incredible fireplace, and vintage bar. Although it's near the train station it’s safe, and a very good bargain. Rome is not about hotel rooms.
Thanks for reading — Gabrielle
SUMMARY
HERE is the Google Maps link.
CASUAL RESTAURANTS (IDEAL FOR LUNCH)
Forno Campo De' Fiori (sandwiches) $
Da Francesco (great for pizzas and more) $$
DINNER RESTAURANTS
COFFEE & BARS
Caffè Portoghesi $
GELATO & SWEETS
BOUTIQUES
Atelier Bomba $$$
Chez Dede $$$
HOTELS
Hotel Mediterraneo (four-stars) $$
Hotel Portoghesi (three-stars) $$
Hotel Locarno (five-stars) $$$
MUSEUM
This is a wonderful list of wonderful Rome things!
Love Yolanda and love getting her guidance on Rome eats!