The Best of Kyoto with Global Kaiseki Master Chef Daisuke Hayashi
Meet one of the few authentic Kaiseki chefs outside Japan
The Relisher is the place where the world’s top chefs reveal their favorite spots in their home cities. This week, we met with Chef Daisuke Hayashi, a globally acclaimed master of Kaiseki, a traditional Japanese multi-course cuisine. Chef Hayashi is the chef and owner behind Roketsu in London, one of the few authentic Kaiseki restaurants outside Japan.
Chef Daisuke honed his craft under the mentorship of Japan's leading Kaiseki master at the three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi Honten in Kyoto. His exceptional talent and dedication to Japanese culinary arts were recognized in 2022 when he received the prestigious Minister's Award for Overseas Promotion of Japanese Food from the Japanese government — one of the highest honors for individuals showcasing Japanese culture abroad.
Today, Chef Daisuke also serves as the appointed Goodwill Ambassador for Japanese cuisine in the UK. Below, the highly celebrated Japanese chef shares his favorite places in Kyoto. (Note: A Google Map with all locations listed is provided at the end of the interview.)
Finest Sushi: Tokyo-style, Kyoto-style, and Kaiseki Fusion
Before sharing my favorite sushi restaurants, it's important to understand some key facts about sushi that many people might not know.
Sushi originated in Tokyo (formerly Edo) as street food, catering to the workers who lived there. At that time, Kyoto was the capital and home to the royal family, nobles, and aristocrats. This historical context explains the development of various sushi types. The most common is Edomae sushi (or Tokyo-style sushi), which uses ingredients, techniques, and traditions that differ from Kyoto-style sushi.
With this background in mind, the first best sushi restaurant that comes to mind is Sushi restaurant Nakaichi. Nakaichi is one of Kyoto's most traditional sushi restaurants, specializing in Kyoto-style sushi served omakase — this is why you’ll find many locals dining here. Adding to its charm, Nakaichi is a historical restaurant that has been around for more than 50 years, nestled in the heart of Gion (Kyoto's famed geisha district). While Nakaichi offers a set menu, I recommend trying two of my favorite seasonal fish when available: ayu (commonly known as sweetfish) and hamo (similar to eel).
For Edomae sushi (or Tokyo-style sushi), Kyoto Sushi Matsumoto is my top pick. This relatively new restaurant stands out for its incredible ingredients, emphasis on freshness, and reasonable prices. The owner's fascination with tuna is evident in the quality served here.
The criteria for top quality tuna is that the fish should weigh over 100 kilos. This heavyweight tuna, known as Oma Tuna, is considered the best of the best. Many Kyoto restaurants don't meet this standard, but Matsumoto consistently serves this grade, enabling you the chance to taste some of the best tuna in Kyoto.
Sushi Kondo, a unique blend of Kaiseki (traditional Japanese) and Kyoto-style sushi, is my third favorite sushi restaurant in Kyoto. What sets this fine dining restaurant apart is its thoughtful approach — they serve only six guests per evening — and creative culinary vision, exemplified by their seamless blend of two distinct cuisines.
I also appreciate their commitment to the highest quality ingredients. For example, the sea urchin that I had, sourced from Hokkaido, was some of the freshest I've had in a long time.
These three are the must-visit sushi restaurants I always recommend to friends and chefs visiting Kyoto for the first time.
Eclectic Mix of Cuisines: Kaiseki, Japanese-Western Fusion, & Refined Chinese Cuisine
While Kyoto is famous for its incredible sushi, the city offers several other excellent cuisines worth exploring.
If you’re visiting Japan for the first time, you must experience Kaiseki (traditional Japanese) cuisine to understand Japanese culture. And I think the best Kaiseki in all of Japan is at the three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi Honten. This is the chef I trained with for many years, where I saw up close how his attention to detail is truly mind-blowing. What's surprising to many is that it's reasonably priced, even though it's the best Kaiseki in the country and holds three stars.
Another unique cuisine to try in Kyoto is called Yoshoku, a Western-style cooking with a 'Kyoto influence' that you won't find elsewhere. The best place to experience this cuisine is at Youshoku Ogata, a restaurant truly beloved by locals. Youshoku Ogata offers high-quality, delicious food, and I particularly enjoy how they prepare dishes in front of you. I love their meat patty, a blend of hamburger and steak that's among the best meat I've had in Kyoto. Just note that you have to book way in advance as it’s very difficult to get a reservation.
Many people don’t know that Kyoto has very good fine-dining Chinese restaurants. My favorite is Kyo Seika, and it’s very special as it blends Chinese and Kaiseki cuisine using Kyoto's seasonal produce.
Top Ramen: From Traditional to Innovative
When I'm looking for a quick bite, ramen is usually my go-to choice. It's worth noting that many people don't know ramen actually originated in China, which is why in Japanese it's called 'Chinese Noodles'.
I have two favorite ramen spots in Kyoto. First is Good Nature Station, which I consider the best traditional ramen in the city (it actually has two Michelin stars). The secret for what makes this so good is that it’s made with soy sauce giving it a special flavor. I order the classic Roku’s Chinese noodles here.
For a unique twist on ramen, I recommend Nippon Ramen. Typical ramen is made with either chicken or pork broth, making the dish very heavy. Nippon Ramen uses duck broth. This creates a lighter, unique flavor that's hard to find elsewhere — it's like a new style of ramen. When I visit, I usually order Shio or Shoyu (ramen primarily seasoned with salt, or shio in Japanese).
Sweet & Spirited Japan: Traditional Desserts, Teas & Sake
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