The Chef Who Helped Put Stockholm on the Culinary Map, Niklas Ekstedt
The Relisher is the place where the world’s top chefs reveal their favorite spots in their home cities. This week, we spoke with Chef Niklas Ekstedt, chef and owner of one-Michelin-starred Restaurant Ekstedt in Stockholm.
Chef Niklas, who has worked at renowned establishments like El Bulli and The Fat Duck, is a household name and cooking legend in his native Sweden. He is credited with helping to establish Stockholm as a culinary destination through his eponymous restaurant in 2011, earning a Michelin star within less than two years. Below, the celebrated Swedish chef shares his favorite hidden gem spots that are largely unknown to tourists.
*At the end of the interview, there is a Google Map link and a summary with links and price ranges for all the mentioned places.
Firstly — Stockholm has an incredible and very special culinary culture catered towards locals. In contrast, European cities like Barcelona, Copenhagen, or Amsterdam tend to cater more towards tourists, and you'll often find that the majority of guests in restaurants are visitors. Additionally, many people have the misconception that Stockholm is very expensive, when in reality, it's 20% to 30% less expensive than Copenhagen.
Coffee & Pastries
Coffee is a religion in Sweden. There's quite a few places that I like, however, Stockholm Roast is probably my favorite. It is also the coffee that we serve in the restaurant. I recommend ordering the pour over coffee — that's how Swedes like to drink their coffee. They're located outside the city in the old meat packing district near a great restaurant called Solen. Although it's outside the city, it's still within walking distance as everything in Stockholm is walking distance.
Sweden is famous for its legendary pastries, and for me Svedjan is the only bakery that makes pastries right. And the reason for this is that they use whole wheat instead of white flour that's cheap. Whole wheat is the real flour. I recommend ordering the cinnamon rolls (it's so delicious you should probably order two instead of one). Or you can do as the locals and order the cardamom pastry. They also have incredible bread.
Specifically for the best traditional Swedish pastries, go to Socker Sucker (which translates to "the sugar baker" in Swedish), and order the Semla pasty (it has almond paste and whipped cream in the middle and then two layered buns). If you're in the mood for traditional French pastries, they have that here too.
Dinner Restaurants
I personally prefer more tiny, intimate restaurants. The first restaurant that comes to mind, which I frequently visit with my wife, is Bord, a cozy 15 - 20 seat establishment where the cooking is done over wood fire. What stands out to me about Bord is that the chef uses incredibly high-quality products (on par with those found in three-star or two-star restaurants), but prepares them in a modest and simple, yet deliciously flavorful manner. The menu is a la carte and changes daily, based on the available fresh produce of the day. As a result, it is slightly more expensive than other small restaurants, but absolutely worth the price.
Another one of my favorites is also an intimate, cozy wine bar called Bar Agrikultur, located in the trendy district of Södermalm. They serve small plates where the cuisine leans more towards the Mediterranean style, but they have a couple of signature dishes that have a Nordic touch to them. You should aim to arrive as soon as they open between 6 to 7 pm, as it fills up quickly — it's very popular among Swedes.
If you're looking to experience the best traditional Swedish food in Stockholm, you must visit Operabaren. It's one of my three favorite places for dinner in town, and I always take my international friends and chefs there during their visit. You can't go wrong with almost any dish, but you absolutely must order the Swedish herring (or the pickled herring). The restaurant itself is beautiful, situated in a historic building from the early 1900s with an Art Nouveau vibe. Note that there are many traditional Swedish restaurants in the old town that are poorly executed.
The most ‘missed’ fine dining restaurant in Stockholm that doesn't get much attention, but is absolutely exceptional, is Nour (one-Michelin-star). The chef, who is Swedish but has Thai roots, blends Asian and Scandinavian cuisine using Nordic products, creating an interesting fusion of Thai and Swedish flavors. This is also a small restaurant with about 20 seats. And the plating is truly the most beautiful I have seen in my entire life.
Casual Restaurants
A restaurant that locals know about and love, yet tourists seem to miss, is called Schmaltz Bar & Delicatessen. It has that New York City, Jewish deli vibe with a Nordic touch. I love their sandwiches and typically order the Reuben sandwich containing pastrami, pickled cucumber, and Russian dressing. What I love about Schmaltz (besides the excellent sandwiches) is that it's an all-day kind of place, they have great coffee and wines, and it's conveniently located in the heart of the city.
Café Nizza, also located in Södermalm, serves dishes with a unique fusion of flavors, blending French and Italian influences with Swedish ingredients. The restaurant has a French bistro vibe, and the menu changes daily, so there aren't any signature dishes. However, one item that's always on the menu is the Fermentata 'cacio e pepe'. This unorthodox version of the classic dish features sourdough pasta (the fermented part), Parmesan cheese (instead of the traditional pecorino), butter, a tiny bit of garlic, and a touch of lemon juice. Note that the outdoor terrace fills up early, as Swedes generally like to eat early for both lunch and dinner.
When you visit Stockholm, you must taste the traditional Swedish dish of pickled herring, and the best place to experience this is at StureHof (located in the middle of the city). Many times after a long evening at the restaurant, I'll stop by for herring and a beer.
Shopping & Attractions
The most beautiful boutique in Stockholm is Svenskt Tenn, an interior design brand that's over 100 years old. You'll find stunning tablecloths, wallpaper, textiles, and home decor pieces that you can bring back home with you. They also have a charming cafe where you can grab coffee and pastries.
You'll find me at the Ostermalmshallen food market, a historic market dating back to the late 1800s, two to three times a week. It's the only market that has products from all over Sweden, including from the Sami (a Scandinavian indigenous group). It's a fantastic place to stroll through and sample gourmet delicacies from both Sweden and Scandinavia. This is where I typically purchase fish, moose, elk, and other types of game meats.
Three Favorite Restaurants in the World
All of the below restaurants are three-Michelin starred:
Noma in Copenhagen is number one on the list. If I feel unmotivated or uninspired in my cooking, I go to Noma to get out of the rut. I must have been there at least 20 times, and each visit is fascinating and eye-opening, and gets me going.
Mugaritz is located outside of San Sebastian. I wouldn't say that this is my favorite restaurant, but it's a very interesting dining experience. It's a restaurant that's at the top of my mind all the time. You think to yourself - where they challenged me so hard that I really need to intellectually think, "What is this? Is this food? Is this edible? Is it me? Is it them? What are they doing? Why are they doing this to me?"
Osteria Francescana by Massimo Bottura in Modena, Italy. Italian cuisine, in its core, is simple food, and Massimo elevates it to the highest level in the world.
I recommend visiting a three-Michelin-starred dining establishment at least two to three times during your life. It's an incredible experience, and it'll be a memory of a lifetime. But when you visit, don't analyze each flavor; enjoy the moment and the meal, and make sure to come with a person who truly enjoys food (I like to call this a "foodie soulmate") to have the best experience possible.
Thanks for reading — Gabrielle
THE DETAILS
HERE is a Google Map
Dinner Restaurants
Bord $$$
Operabaren $$$
Nour $$$
Casual Restaurants
Coffee & Pastries
Stockholm Roast (coffee) $$
Svedjan $$
Shopping
Svenskt Tenn $$$
Ostermalmshallen (food market) $$